Mention the Virgin Islands, and most people think of the US Virgin Islands or British Virgin Islands. Yet, just 20-25 miles from these islands, and only 6 miles to the east of Puerto Rico, lies the Spanish Virgin Islands, also known as the “Passage Islands”.
Ceded to the United States in 1898, this area is made up of the islands of Culebra and Vieques along with their surrounding islets and cays.
The Spanish Virgin Islands have always been a well-kept secret, even back in the days of Blackbeard and other famous pirates who used the islands for hide-outs. The fact that the Marines and US Navy used the islands for bombing practice until 2003 also kept land developers, commercialism, and an abundance of sailing charters away.
The result is pristine and unspoiled islands, with spacious deserted white sandy beaches; crystal clear turquoise blue water, and healthy reefs teeming with fish, coral and crustaceans. There are hills to climb and explore; nearly empty anchorages, and the natural charm of the BVI from thirty-five years ago.
If you are looking for a somewhat remote pure paradise for your next vacation aboard a sailing charter, then the Spanish Virgin Islands are your answer!
The Spanish Virgin Islands are easily reached from the eastern coast of Puerto Rico, out of the town of Fajardo, where your sailing vessel will be berthed. Even though Puerto Rico is a commonwealth of the US, its strong Spanish heritage has remained.
Regardless of whether you are bareboating or have a crewed sailing charter, it is worthwhile to take a few days before or after your charter to explore the island.
Three highlights not to miss are:
- Old San Juan,
- El Yunque Rainforest,
- and Rio Camuy Cave Park
Wander among the seven square block area known as “Old San Juan“, and it is easy to see why it is considered one of the best preserved treasures of Spanish colonial architecture.
Steep narrow streets cobbled with bricks are lined with some of the oldest buildings in the Western Hemisphere. Their bright pastel facades and wrought iron balconies are a delight. With its Spanish-style courtyards, antique shops and art galleries, the old world influence is easily appreciated.
Southeast of San Juan, the Caribbean National Forest, known as “El Yunque,” covers 28,000 acres and rises 3,500 feet above sea level.
The only tropical rainforest in the US forest system, El Yunque is home to more than 225 native tree species. There are 50 types of orchids, a plethora of rare flora and fauna, as well as numerous waterfalls.
There are several miles of well-marked pathways (many paved) to explore. It is a natural wonder you will not soon forget.
Northwest of San Juan lies the Rio Camuy Cave Park. It is the third largest ground river cave system in the world. A two-hour tour allows you to explore the 268 acres of tunnels, sinkholes, stalagmites, stalactites and underground rivers.
While mainland, Puerto Rico has plenty of great sites. Your true, sailing charter adventure begins as you explore the islands known as the Spanish Virgins.
Leaving Fajardo and sailing across the Vieques Sound, Isla Palominos is a great introduction to this area. This is a jewel of a tropical island. During the day, the reef on the northern shore is an excellent place to snorkel. At night, Isla Palominos is the perfect place to watch the sunset over El Yunque’s rainforest and dine on the fresh tuna or bonito you caught trolling out in the sound.
The next place to explore is Cayo Luis Pena, just off the island of Culebra. This two mile long uninhabited, wildlife refuge has numerous hiking paths and spectacular secluded beaches.
For the sailing charterer looking for solitude, this is the spot. If you have a fairly fast dinghy, and conditions are light, the anchorage is a good place to launch snorkeling or diving expeditions to the reefs off of Culebra, including Las Hermanas and Cayo Yerba.
Puerto Rico’s lobster season is year-long, so your next meal may be found under a coral overhang. This anchorage also provides a majestic sunset view of the El Yunque rainforest. Imagine sitting in the cockpit of your sailing charter at dusk dining on your own fresh catch with this incredible view!
To the east of Cayo Luis Pena lies Isla de Culebra, an 11 square mile, unspoiled beauty of an island. Attracted by its seclusion, its spectacular miles and miles of stunning beaches, is the quaint town of Dewey. The snorkeling and dive sites are possibly some of the Caribbean’s best!
This is a perfect destination to spend a few days on your sailing charter vacation. You will have no choice but to enjoy the natural beauty of this island. Home to only about 2,000 residents, who live strictly by “island time“, this island has no resorts or nightclubs to entertain you. The sleepy town of Dewey consists of a ragtag assortment of two-story wooden lean-tos and a handful of bars and restaurants, whose owners may or may not choose to open them on any given day.
Since 1909, the entire coastline and one-third of the interior has been designated the Culebra National Wildlife Refuge, which is run by the US Fish and Wildlife Service. These protected lands are home to endangered sea turtles, including the leatherback turtle, and some 50,000 sea birds.
There are three roads on Culebra – all leading to a beach. The most famous and perhaps most spectacular in the entire Caribbean is Playa Flamenco. This usually deserted, wide, smooth beach is made up of white sand as fine as powdered sugar.
If hiking is not your thing, you can take a dinghy ride through the mangrove swamps off Ensenada Honda near Dewey. Or, anchor your sailboat or catamaran in either Dakity Harbor or Bahia de Almodovar for a day of snorkeling.
There is a reason the Puerto Rican tourist office calls Culebra, “the fishiest place in Puerto Rico!” Some of the Caribbean’s best diving and snorkeling is on Culebra, whose reefs are also protected by the US Fish and Wildlife Service.
Pristine coral reefs and clear calm waters provide an amazing opportunity to observe barracuda, stingrays, parrotfish, trumpet fish, blue tangs, deep purple sea fans, and a variety of colorful coral, as well as a chance to swim with sea turtles.
At night, in the quiet anchorage of Bahia de Almodovar, you can watch the twinkling lights of St. Thomas, 15 miles away, come on as the sun sets on another perfect day of your sailing charter.
Another anchorage for your yachting vacation is the tiny offshore cay, Culebrita. The snorkeling here is also excellent. The beaches are fabulous, especially the 400-foot white sand crescent on the northern shore.
The anchorages on Culebrita are fairly deserted during the week, but the weekends are a different story. Everyone from Puerto Rico, with a fast power boat, seems to make Culebrita the weekend party destination of choice. After several days of solitude, it can be fun to watch people, as families laugh, dance on deck to blaring salsa music, share a drink or two with you, and then disappear at sunset.
The last stop on your sailing charter in the Spanish Virgin Islands should be to the island of Vieques. Twenty-one miles long and three to four miles wide, many cruisers consider the bays, coves, and beaches of this island the best of all Virgin Island anchorages.
Due to its recent history as a US bombing practice site, the island has been untouched by developers, (even though other than St. Croix, it is the largest island in both the US and British Virgin Islands).
With a population of only 8,000 human residents living in the center part, the island is also home to a large herd of roaming goats, a few scrawny cattle, and wild Paso Fino horses. Most locals travel by horseback. The main town is Esperanza, with its lovely white seaside promenade, and is lined with picturesque restaurants.
One of the highlights to visiting Vieques is a night time trip to Mosquito Bay, said to contain the highest degree of bioluminescence in the world. The huge concentrations of micro-organisms give off an eerie glow when disturbed by movement in the water.
If the waters are calm, you can dinghy over from your anchorage in Ensenada Sun Bay. Otherwise, it is worth hiring one of the many private tour operators from Esperanza to take you on a night dive, kayak or electric boat trip to experience this remarkable phenomenon.
Your last night on your sailing charter should be spent anchored in Green Beach, located at the western end of Vieques. The beach, with its narrow stretch of palm-lined sand, looks directly across the water to El Yunque in Puerto Rico, just six miles to the west. Sipping the last of your rum drinks on deck, watch for the green flash as the sun disappears below the horizon on this pristine piece of paradise.
If you are looking for undisturbed anchorages, isolated pristine white beaches, spectacular snorkeling and diving, and onshore immersion into the Spanish Caribbean culture with local residents, unaffected by tourism or development, then the Spanish Virgin Islands are for you!
These unspoiled islands and cays will provide a sailing charter opportunity completely unique from the nearby US and British Virgin Islands.
Temperate weather assures seven days of tropical bliss, year-round, and short distance sailing makes it easy to chart your course. From delectable Spanish cuisine to unmatched natural beauty, this region’s unique culture awaits. Leave your passport at home and book your yacht charter with Virgin Island Sailing®.
